Dim Sum Park
The search for the Holy Grail is complete
- Telheiras (Linha Verde)
- €
- Alameda Roentgen 7E, 1600-757
A major challenge when looking for dim sum anywhere outside of Asia is finding that which is fresh over frozen. We were delighted when we found a pretty good Cantonese restaurant in Rato clearly making fresh treats. However, you don't produce a billion people to only export one good restaurant to each city and town. So up to Telheiras we went to see what Dim Sum Park was all about.
At this stage, our greatest concern is that as part-time writers, full-time gluttons, we lack the true skill to describe just how truly fantastic this dim sum is. Unperturbed and with a word count to complete, let us try. First the prawn cheung fun. Chunky prawns swaddled in the perfect balance of chewy and tender rice noodle roll. No hint of the rubbery texture typical of a frozen impersonator.
Next to the siu mai. Bursting with a pork flavour and testing our chopstick skills to the limit by attempting to control such a magnificent and chunky morsel. Also in tow, four equally chunky ha gow. More muscular prawns encased in sumptuous, gelatinous shells.
But the star. The very reason we are unsure which superlatives would do it justice, is the char siu bao. The perfect char siu bao sings with the harmony of soft fluffy bread and strong sticky chunks of steaming char siu. In the best they combine to deliver multiple high note textures underpinned with the bass of barbecued sweet char siu. It has actually been a number of years since we last experienced the perfect bao. Don't get us wrong, there's been plenty of good ones, but perfect ones should be elusive by their nature.
As the three freshly risen bao bloomed out of the steamer, we plucked one out each, offering it to the gods like Rafiki with Simba. Tearing them apart exposed the hollow centre groaning with gold-standard Chinese barbecued meat. Savouring each bite, these bao are the perfect Cantonese flavour experience.
Supplementing the divine dim sum was a hearty feast of "Three delights" noodles. More of the expertly cooked char siu, chicken and prawns all turned through a mountain of medium egg noodles.
For four plates of dim sum and a gigantic noodle dish, with tea and one beer, the whole bill came in, unbelievably, below €30. This is the best dim sum in Lisbon, on both price and quality we are not sure it can be beaten.
Drinks: 1 imperial and a pot of jasmine tea for two.
Don’t forget to order: Ascend to heaven on the back of char siu bao.