Floresta da Estefânia
You don't monkey with tradition
- Arroios (Linha Verde)
- €
- R. Cidade da Horta 37, 1000-101
In 1988, as your authors were in nappies (or not even born!), the world was seduced to the beauty and charm of Julia Roberts on the big screen. Cast as an eminently believable, Portuguese-American, the joy of the film Mystic Pizza centres on the power of a great food review of the family restaurant. Prided on their Algarve heritage recipe, they make their traditional pizza built on the motto "Don't monkey with tradition". So to Floresta Estefânia.
One of the joys of life in Lisbon is the endless supply of tascas available on every single street. Each of them serve an extremely similar set of options, but each with their own twist, either through recipe or atmosphere. Tucked away behind the rapidly changing rua Pascoal de Melo, Floresta Estefânia finds itself stationed in a gentrifying neighbourhood with some truly excellent dining options. Yet it sustains thanks to one of the friendliest and most vibrant dining rooms around.
Don't monkey with tradition
Hosting a visitor from the UK, we slotted in for a convivial mid-week feast. Welcomed with open arms, we sat down and immediately had the tasca's signature couvert of a plate of sizzling hot chouriço thrust beneath our noses. Devouring the delightfully spicy, fatty morsels, we sent in our main course requests. Picanha, chicken breast and an alheira, the genius chicken-sausage invention by 15th Century Sephardic Jews.
Each immaculately grilled protein (deep fry for the alheira) is served with what is now clearly the traditional sides of white rice, chips and a fried egg. Simple, dependable cooking, which leaves the diner full and satisfied. All done for less than €10 per plate. Wanting to show off for our guest, we entertained the idea of a full three course meal, so made the unnecessary request for the menu de sobremesas .
Tradition, tradition tradition, and the Portuguese with their dessert portions loaded with enough sugar to power one hundred children for one hundred days, do have some classics. So with a wedge of molotov, an alchemy of uncooked meringue and bolo de bolacha, a tower of chocolate a cream served to replicate the Shard laid flat dismissed, we slumped into our chairs and basked in the homely atmosphere of families feasting and men clamouring over Sporting Lisboa on the TV. In 1988, the reviewer catapults Julia's restaurant to fame, won over as he is by the mystique of the pizza. Yet there is no mystery to the tascas of Portugal to us. It's just consistently good food in good environments.
Don’t forget to order: Fortunately you don't need to order the chouriço, it'll be with you in a moment.