Lota Sea & Fire

• Saldanha (Linha Vermelha/Amarela)
• €€€
• Av. Duque de Ávila 42B, 1050-053

'Don't judge a book by its cover' goes the saying. The humble tasca backs up this pearl of wisdom. Disposable paper table cloths, Compal-sponsored napkin dispensers and bright lights typically mean you're in for a banging bitoque or bacalhau.

So for a while we tried to ignore Lota Sea & Fire. Pretended to not be intrigued by its inviting interior and gorgeously lit bar. Walked past its weekly bubbles and oyster night. Overlooked the exciting sounding menu and the outdoor terrace area. In the end, it was Lota's interesting wine collection that got us through the door one evening, and the friendly staff that encouraged us to try a few plates while we sat at the bar. And as we sipped a delicious dry white wine, sharing a portion of the stracciatella, prawn and 'Joselito' on bread... well, we realised how foolish we had been.

We had to organise a return visit. And it had to be soon.

Stracciatella, prawn and 'Joselito' on bread.

And so return we did, this time for a proper meal in the lovely dining space out the back of the restaurant. The decor is light and inviting, the tables well spaced out for cosy privacy, and there's a second outdoor seating space. But the decor was not the reason for our visit, and we quickly got pretty excited ordering small plates to share.

The nori seaweed butter in the couvert really set the tone (did I lick the knife afterwards? That would be telling), before moving onto the tasty Caesar tacos - individual Caesar salads wrapped in a lettuce leaf.

But then... the smoked eel arrived. Things were about to get interesting.

Smoked eel in puff pasty and Marrare sauce.

Crispy discs of puff pasty, topped with smoky eel, chopped up pancetta and a creamy sauce made for a decadent plate of smoky goodness. This was the plate of the night. It was quickly followed up by the soft shell crab. Served a-top a coriander curry sauce, it was like a particularly high-end fish and chips (a possibly niche reference unless - like one of us - you too are from north of Peterborough in the UK and get curry sauce from the chip shop). A swordfish sandwich was a fishy prego-like delight - squidgy and garlicky, this is the dish I have most thought about in the days since our visit.

Swordfish sandwich.

Finally, the dish that brought us back here - stracciatella so creamy you want to eat it by the spoonful, juicy prawns so pink and gelatinous you would think they are sweeties, and the fatty, salty 'Joselito' cured ham. One to be savoured (or - eaten as quickly as possible before your dining partner tries to wrestle it off you).

Lota Sea & Fire - we will be back. And next time, I'll try to not knock over my wine glass in my excitement about your lovely, lovely food.