Restaurante Alpendre

Big tasca mussels into the scene

Restaurante Alpendre

Every Lisboeta will tell you that the city is changing, and nowhere more so than the traditional neighbourhood of Alfama. One Portuguese pal gave us the name of Alpendre as his favourite restaurant in the neighbourhood, and told us to go quickly before the area changes any more. The night we were there the neighbourhood was in the full swing of Festas dos Santos Populares, so after snacking on sardines and bifana, we went for dinner at Alpendre.

It is a traditional Portuguese tasca serving some of the best seafood we’ve eaten in Lisbon. Pricier than your usual tasca (not by London standards - our bill came to €75 with starters, mains, coffee and wine for two) but more than worth it. Consider practising your Portuguese by giving them a call to book a table - it started filling up around 8.30pm. And Rossio is the nearest Metro but Alfama is a ten minute walk up the hill, so leave those heels at home.

Don’t forget to order: Seafood rice (€30 for two people)

Subscribe for your total eating in Lisbon guide